Art of fitting sweatbands for hats and apparatus therefor



June 7, 1932. R. K. REYNOLDS ART OF FITTING SWEATBANDS FOR HATS AND APPARATUS THEREFOR Filed Jan. 12. 1927 s Sheets-Sheet 1 W INVEN R W mm June 7, 1932. R. K. REYNOLDS 1,852,161

,ART OF FITTING SWEATBANDS FOR HAT AND APPARATUS THEREFOR Filed Jan. 12. 1927 3 SheetsSheet 2 June. 7, 1932. v R. K. REYNOLDS ART OF FITTING SWEATBANDS FOR HATS AND APPARATUS THEREFOR Filed Ja n. 1251927 3 Sheets-Sheet 5 Patented June 7, 1932 UNI'TEDSITATES PATENT oF ic l' RALPH K. REYNOLDS, OF DAN BURY, GONNEGTTCUQ ASSIGNOR TO MALLORY H'A'l COM- PANY, OF DANBURY, CONNECTTCUT, A CORPORATION OF CONNECTICUT ART or FITTING- sWEATBANnsFoR HATS AND APPARATUS THEREFOR.-

I Application filed January 12,1927. Serial No. 160,589.

This invention relates to hat manufacture and more particularly to an art or method of fitting sweat-bands into hats, and apparatus therefor. r

One of the objects of the invention is to provide a method of fitting sweat-bands into hats which is practical and highly eflicient. Another object is to provide a method of the above nature whereby the accuracy and uniformity of the head sizes of the finished hats are greatly improved. Another object is to provide a method of the above nature which may be conveniently carried on and which results in a saving of labor and time over the methods employed heretofore. Another object is to provide practical and efiicient apparatus for carrying out the above method or process. Another object is to provide such apparatus which is simple and convenient to operate. Other objects will be in part obvious or in part pointed out hereinafter.

, The invention accordingly consists in the features of construction, combinations of elements, arrangements of parts and in the several stepsand relation and order of each of the same to one or more of the others all as will be illustratively described herein, and the'scope of the application of which will be indicated in the following claims." 80

In the accompanyingdrawings in which is shown one of the various possible embodiments of the mechanical features of this invention, V i

' Figure 1 shows a sweat-band prior to its being fitted to a hat;

' Figure 2 shows the sweat-band cut or trimmed to size;

Figure 3 is a side elevation of a finished hat partly broken away to show the sweatband therein;

Figure 4 shows in dotted lines the hat in inverted position and the sweat-band in full lines;. i

Figure 5 is a plan view of an apparatus for cutting the sweat-bands to size; Figure 6-is a front elevation of the ratus; I i I Figure 7 isa section taken along the line 77 of Figure 6;

app

Figure 8 is a section taken along the line 88 of Figure 6; i

Figure 9 is a section taken along the line 9-9 of Figure 6, and i i V Figure 10 is a fragmentaryview of parts of the apparatus shown in Figure 6.

Similar reference characters refer'to similar parts throughout the several views of the drawings. 3

As conducive to a clearer understandingof certain features of this invention, it may be here noted that in the manufacture of hats, for example, felt hats, the hats are made in various head sizes which are indicat'edby well known :size marks. Ordinarily the sizes will runfrom about size 6 or a little smaller up to size 8 or a little larger, the intermediate sizes being graduated in one-eighths; for example, in a given style of hat the manufacturer must make sizes 6 6%, 6%, 6'7 7 and so on up to about size 8 in order to be reasonably certain of having a size which will fit the head of anywearer. i It is endeavored to have all hatswhich ar marked for a given size, for example, size 7 actually of thesalme head size'when the hats are completed in order'that a man who knows that he wears a size 7 hat, for exainple, may select any hat marked 7 and know that it will fit. This'uniformity of sizes is greatly to be desired, as will be readilyjunderstood, but with the methods ofhat manufacture heretofore employed it has not'been succesfully achieved, the finished hats which are supposed all to be of the same size actually varying very substantially in their head measurements. V i 5 I The hat bodies vary in size after they have been'blocked and brought to shape andare ready to be trimmed, or to have the bands or head sizes of the finished hat. In the methods commonly employed, when the sweatband is fitted into the hat it is simply cut to such length that it will fit the hat being trimmed and is then fastened in place in that hat. The result is that variations: in the sizes of thegghat bodies which are supposed to be of a given size are not discovered and the inaccuracies are not corrected but in many cases are aggravated in the-completed'hat.

and, 1n addition, thedeslred cone shape or It is one' ofthedominant aims of this inven-.- tion to provide a method of fitting sweatbands intohats which overcomes these difiiculties and not only results in a greatimprovement in the accuracy of the head sizes -.O ,f.;the finished hats but which is moreexpeditious than the methods heretofore -emiployedi I Referring now t the drawings, there. is ;shown;-in;Figure l a sweat-band 10. These sweat-bands are ordinarily ofleather and they aream-ade up in large quantities and ,generally. obtained-by the hat manufacturers in quantities and in substantially the shape "ishown-sin Eigurel. They are made in the curved shape shown in order to fit the scope .yfiratorsselects a of; therhatszinto which they are to befitted. the scope. ofthe hat ismeant the curved rShaPeYOf the hat at the band whereby the band is h gher-at thesides of the hat than it is at theiends, as is brought out. in Figure 3. The sweat-bands .10, as they are 7 made. up and as .ShOWl'X.lI11Eigl1IY8 1, are roughat the ends and .of; a; length; greater than required in thehat. In the methods heretofore employed, the, op-

hatv band such as 10, of too (great length, and inserts it into the hat where the sweat-bandis.intended to be placed, with the -rough ends: ove -rrlapping. .T-hereupon, the operator makes a suitable mark upon the bandatthepoints where it-requires tov be cut in orden-to reducethe sweat-band-to a length adapted to. j ust, fit. into the. hat with ithe-en'ds.

tthereofinlabutting relation. Ordinarily .the

. .abutt ing; ends; are placed at the rear 1- .0f the hat as indicated at 1-1.in Figure 4. Theoper- .ator: .then. cuts. the band in accordance; with the mark made thereon and then'fastens the ends gins abutting relation by-.means of a sticker-applied to the rear-side of the-sweatband, and perhaps .a-fewsti-tches.= The sweatband is then sewed into the hatto-lwhich it has thus; been, fitted, for. example, by means 90f.- stitchessuchvnas shown at;l2 in Figure 3.

' {Inadditiontomarking andgcutting the sweatf ban'di-so that it will fit intothe-hat the operhtoreattempts to make'the cuts soathat when the ends are 1 abutted the sweat-band has somewhat of; a cone-shapeor funnel sh apeas- .mayibeseen in Figures 3 and.4,;the edge 13 .ofgt-heriband beingsho-rterrthan the edgel L. Thus, it will be. seen that no attempt is made .itcrdiscover oricorrectzinaccuracies'in the size -of-the:hat.: 11f the:hatbody.- is smallenthan is ldiesiredvfor the:head: size of the finished hat,

and eachloneis .cut .to ailength" whichgwill give exactlythe. head size 7 The ends ofsthe sweat-bands are then secured together in abutting relation and then, for thefirsttime,

,the sweat-bands are introducedintothehatsm If the hat is toosmall to giveafinished head size of 7 ,the swea't-band-willnot go into-ithe hatand this hat'is rejectedaridgeithenreblocked, or used for asm'aller size; Ifthe hjat body is slightlytoo large,the sweatsbandgwill correct-the size and thefinished hat with, the

sweat-band therein will be exactlythe size 7 which it was intended tobe.

:- Itwill beseen that the operator whofs eivs the sweat-bandinto the hat isrequiredtov do -1 no fitt ng whatever but simply places the-two ends. of the prepared sweat-band together and pastes a sticker on the; unfinished side; of

the two. abutting ends. ;The-, sweat-bands cts as a. gage, indicating at oncewhetherror not. i

thehatbody is of thesize that it. should be.

Inaccuracies and non-uniformity, inthessizes .of thefinished hats are eflectively avoided. .In addition, a v rysubstantial saving in time and labor is effected and danger of- :spoi'ling -'.,1

sweat-bands by careless cuttingonflthepart of the operator is avoided. 1 The ends of;the .bands may all be cut -at a uniform. angle-s0 that the desired cone shape'or funnelshape willfbe present and uniform in-the sweat-band .of each finished hat.

. Referring nowfto Figure 5,,there is shown a sweat-bandlO being cut to shape andsize, as has been described above.- Due tosthe curved shape of the sweat-bandtofit,the-

scope of the hats, the sweatsb and has. a;-socalled center or center line which is indicated .at 10a in Figure 1 and inFigure 5.4The

rought sweat-band is doubled upon itself along the center'line 10a and the loop is -i.-.

placed about a horizontal support 15 which preferably takes the form of a'-ro-und-rod.'

This rod issecured to and-projectsoutwardly from a bracket -16.which is in turn secured to theleft-h-and end of a horizontally slidable 1ne1nber. 17. This member' li is .smount ed; upon and slid'able-upon a. table or plateilS,

as will be described in detail presently-,z-iand .the table .18.:rests :upon. arzbaser 19.4; ;:At1.:.the

right-hand end of the.base:, 19 i s a straight edge 20 cooperating with which is a knife 21. The knife 21 is pivoted to the base 19 at 22 and at its free end is provided with ahandle23 by means of which it is operated.

The folded sweat-band having been slipped over the supporting rod 15, the two folded portions thereof are registered, one above the other, and the edges are alined by sliding the edges 14 against a plate 24 which projects upwardly from, the surface of the table '18. The position of the leather sweat- "band upon the table 18 is thus determined by the supporting rod and the guiding plate 24; The ends ofthe sweat-band project over the straight edge and beneath the knife 21 and, by now bringing the knife down, the

two ends of'the sweat-band are cut off along a line determined by the straight edge 20. v

The distance between the supporting rod 15 and the edge 20 determines the length to which the sweat-band is cut. The table 18 is preferably pivotally mounted upon the support 19, by a pivot post 25, so that the angular position of the table with respect to the edge 20 may be adjusted. Alocking screw 26, passing through an arcuate slot in i the table, is provided for locking the table in the position to which it is adjusted about the pivot 25. By this adjustment about the pin 25 there is determined the angle at which the ends of the sweat-band are cut when the knife is operated. This angle is adjusted to give the desired cone shape or funnel shape to the sweat-band when the ends thereof are placed in abutting relation.

The member '17 carrying the supporting rod 15 is'adjustable in position lengthwise of the table 18 and hence toward and away from the straight edge 20. The right-hand portion of the member 17 is split into two spaced parts 17 a and 17 6 between whichis a guide 27 the edges of which overhang the parts 17 a and 17?) and which guides the member 17 in 'its sliding movem'entfi Upon the surface of the table 18 adjacent to the part 17a is a raised portion 28 which is graduated lengthwise by markings indicating head sizes. Secured to'the slidable part 17a is a pointer 29 overhanging the surface of the part 28 and adapted to c'oact with the markings or grad- 'uations thereon.

The marks upon the portion 28 are so positioned thereon that, when the pointer indicates a given head size, the supporting rod 15 is positioned at such distance from the straight edge 20 that, when the knife 21 is operated, the leather sweat-band is out to precisely therequired length to give that head size. For example, if it be desired to cut a sweat-band for a size 7 the slidablemember 17 with its parts 17a and 17b is moved along the table 18 until the pointer 29 registers with the mark 7 upon the scale 28 the knife is'then operated to cut off the ends of the sweat-band and the resulting length of the sweat-band is such that when'the ends thereof are placed head size V Mounted upon the surface of the table 18, to the left of the portion 28, is a bracket 30 having an upstanding lug 31 in which is supported a pivot pin 32. As best shown in Figure 6, there is pivoted upon the pin 32 a bell crank lever the long arm 33 of which forms a handle and the short arm 34 of which has pivoted thereto, at its lower end 35, a pawl 36. In the upper surface of the part 17?) are ratchet teeth 17 c with which this pawl 36 coacts. The end of the pawl rests by gravity against the ratchet teeth. A spring 37 coiled about the pin 32 bears against the arm 33 of the bell crank lever .and normally holds the lever in the position shown in the drawings, with the arm 34 thereof against a stop pin 38 which is mounted upon the lug 31. By depressing the handle or arm 33 of the bell crank the member 17 and the supporting arm 15 are moved to the right through the action of the pawl 36 upon the ratchet teeth 170.

The part 17a of the member 17 is provided in its upper surface with a series of indexing notches 17d which are evenly spaced apart a distance equal to the distance between adjacent size marks on the part 28. Cooperating with the indexing notches 1761 is an index finger 39 (Figure 6) which is at the right-hand end of a bar 40. The bar 40 at its left-hand end 41 is pivoted upon a bracket 42 projecting from the surface of the table 18. The index finger 39, cooperating with the notches 17d, isfor the purpose of positioning the support 17 so that the pointer 29 will register exactly with the respective size marks upon the part 28. When the index finger 39 is in engagement with a notch 1701 the part 17 and the'supporting rod 15 are locked in a predetermined position and in such position that the pointer 29 registers with one of the size marks.

F or lifting the index finger 39 out ofthe I notches, there is provided a lever pivoted uponthe pin 32 having a handle portion 43 and a portion 43a which is connected by a link 44 with the bar 40 adjacent to the index finger 39. A spring 45, which is coiled about the pin. 32, urges the index finger downwardly and normally holds the parts in the position shown in the drawings. pressing the handle 43 the index finger 39 is raised from the part 17 a thereby releasing the member 17 for movement along the table toward .or' away from the straight edge 20.

In the use of this apparatus, the'operator starts by first cutting the sweat-bands which are to be given thelargest head size of the lot which he has onhand to be out. If this largest size is size 7%,. for example, the oprne essaryto move the slide 17 to the left, the pawl .36 may be lifted out of engagement with the ratchet teeth 170' by means of a pin 36a (Figure 6); WVhen the slide has been moved sothat the pointer 29 indicates thesize mark 77 the index'fmger 39 rests in one ofthe index notches 17d and the slide is locked against movement in either direction. The operator new places over the supporting rod 1 5,.as-has been explained above, asweat-band which is to be cut to the head size 71/ and he then brings down the knife 21; without changing the adjustment of the apparatus thefloperation is repeated upon all of the sweat-bands which are to be given the head .size 7 5 V The operator now adjusts the apparatus to cut the sweat-bands which are to be given the size 7 In order to accomplish this adjust- -,-ment,,the handle 43 is depressed to lift the 7 index finger 39 and, with the same movement,

the handle'33 is depressed to actuate the pawl 36 and move the slide 17 to the right. As the handle 33 is depressed the handle 43 is released and thereupon, as soon as the slidel? has been moved a sufficient distance, the index ,finger 39 drops into the next notch 17 (land locks the slide against further movement and with the pointer 29 indicatingthe size 7 The operator then cuts all of the sweat-bands .which are to have the head size 7 7 and thereupon goes to the next smaller size, 7 A, and so on down to the smallest size. It will be seen that the operation is extremely simple and .may be carried on rapidly with dependably accurate results. Each sweat-band is cut to exactly a predetermined size which is to be the head size of the hat into which that sweat-band is to be fitted.

vAfter the sweat-bands have been cut to .sizeas above described, they-are passed on to the .operatorwho is tofasten the ends thereof in abutting relation and sew them into the I -c0n.1b1 t n-,. fli g tool, asunpmttforga folded iswe'atband-movable in a direction .to

hats. Itwill be seen that the head sizes ofthe finished hats will be accurate and uniform throughout. If a hat which when finished is to have a given head size will not properly ;;take a sweat-band which has beencut for that size, the hat is rejected and inaccuracies are thereby at once detected and corrected. These advantages'are accomplished with an actual isavingvin time and labor over the methods heretofore commonly employed.

-..-;1As;' many possible embodiments may be v,mad'e of themechanical features of the above invention, and as the art herein described might be varied in various parts all without departing fromthe scope of the invention, it is to. be understood'that all matter herein- I above setforth or shown in the accompanying drawings is to be interpreted as illustrative aindznot in .a limiting sense.

Lclaim as myinvention:

l. vln-apparatusof the class described, in

combination, a cutting tool, means for supoperativemelatiOntosaid tc; jol .jnstingisaid support 'th respect to said tool means, being so graduated thilt .of said, support. letermined there headsize.

.for a foldedtswe .1,,seare1 p t g a sweaa an withvita l drpim zi f r-adto adjust angularlythepositipn of said sweatband withrespect to said tool, means. .foli;m0v-'&.;7

ing said 1 support bodilyvtoijt'ard l ,and away from said tool, and means,for pperatingsa'id tool to cut off .theendoisaidsweatflnand. V V 2- In; apparat s. of. t la$sdescribed, -;in combination, a knife, a straight ,edgeladap ed to cooperate with said knife, ,mans'a; apted to pp a ea ban mih eneml'ipp tion thereof overhanging said fstra-ight ledge, 7 means for. adjusting said support: 'an gularl'y to adjust ,tlieangular relation between saidn straight edge. and said, portion of.1 the.- sweatband thereover, means .for moying said slipport.bodily towardmnd '.away ,fr,om sai fo constraight edgefiand indexing ineans trolling said .last movement said;

X-.=.g ifl when said knife .is Ioperated, a glengthof sweat-band, adapted for. a.. predete r;m ined o 3. In apparatus-of the. class described combination, a \cuty ing.,.t 01ol, ,.av support for hol i g a folded swe t-bandrela iyely.i

. movable thereon with: thejuxtaposedendsmf said .band in operativerelation to 'said..;t'opl,--': said support..beingmovable in a, direction lengthwise ofsaid folded band towardr-and away from said tool, means for ,operating said o mc o f t e endrq t on's' zotjsaid sw a band, indexing means for... positi ning ,,s,a id"-"1;9 support wi h-respect tqs gid tool saidindexg means being gr duate in headmaesim hats,.,and means. for. mOyingsaid support adapted when actuatedto movesaid upport with respect to said. tool through; a distance @9 eq lat e d stan etetw eh swear- 1mm graduations of said indexingmeans.

4. In apparatusof the class describedgin move said. folded lsw'eats bandi lengthwise toward and away frmmsaidQtool-and adapted to position said folded sweat band with its end portions inoperative relation to said tool,

means, for operating'said tool to cutofithe end '2 portions of said s'weat-bztndkm'eans,for;positioning said a support in a pluralitjoffd-ifi'erent positions withjrespect tosaidftopl, e achof which positions resultswhen; said tool isloperated in theeutting, of said. sweat-bandfto a 1 length adapted to give a predetermined head si e and (m a s; moya e. rela ive y 19.3 am support for stepping, saidsnpport progres p oie i g.ontward iilttem.sa zdi sliflsag tated?! to enter the loop of said folded sweat-band and adapted to position said sweat-band with the end portions thereof in operative relation to said tool, indexing means graduated in head sizes adapted to indicate the position of said slide with respect to said tool and means movable relatively to said slide and operable for imparting a step-by-step movement of said support toward said tool.

6. In apparatus of the class described, in combination, a cutting tool, a slide movable toward and away from said tool, a support for a folded sweat-band comprising an arm projecting outwardly from said slide adapted to enter the loop of said folded sweat-band and adapted to position said sweat-band with the end portions thereof in operative relation to said tool, indexing means graduated in head sizes adapted to indicate the position of said slide with respect to said tool, and means for moving said slide adapted when actuated to move said slide through a distance equal to the distance between two adjacent graduations of said indexing means.

7. In apparatus of the class described, in combination, a cutting tool, a slide movable toward and away from said tool, a support for a folded sweat-band comprising an arm projecting outwardly from said slide adapted to enter the loop of said folded sweat-band and adapted to position said sweat-band with the end portions thereof in operative relation to said tool, means formoving said slide toward and away from said tool, and means for adjusting the angular position of said arm with respect to said tool.

8. In apparatus of the class described, in combination, a cutting tool, a slide movable toward and away from said tool, a support for a folded sweat-band comprising an arm projecting outwardly from said slide adapted to enter the loop of said folded sweat-band and adapted to position said sweat-band with the end portions thereof in operative relation to said tool, indexing means graduated in head sizes for determining the positions of said slide with respect to said tool, and means comprising a pawl and ratchet mechanism for moving said slide.

9. In apparatus of the class described, in combination, a cutting tool, a slide movable toward and away from said tool, a support for a folded sweat-band comprising an arm projecting outwardly from said slide adapted to enter the loop of said folded sweat-band and adapted to position said sweat-band with the end portions thereof in operative relation to said tool, a plurality of notches spaced longitudinally along said slide, an index finger adapted to cooperate with said notches, means for moving said slide, and means for lifting said index finger, said two meansbeing arranged to be operated together.

10. In apparatus of the class desoribed,'in combination, a cutting tool, a slide movable toward and away from said tool,=a support for a folded sweat-bandcomprising an arm projecting outwardly from said slide adapted to enter the loop of said folded sweat-band and adapted to position said sweat-band with theend portions thereof in operative relation; to sa1d tool, a, plurality. of notches spaced longitu dinally along. said slide, an index ger adapted to cooperate with said notches, me ans for lifting said index finger, and means for moving said slide adapted whenoperated to move said. slide through a distance substan tially equal to the distance between twoadjajcent notches; i J

11. In apparatus of the class described,in

combination, a knife, means for supporting a,

sweat-band folded at its center with thejux-- taposed end portions thereof'inposition to.

be cutofl by said knife, saidjsupporting means including means for coacting with the center portion of said sweat-band and prede termimng the distance of said centerportionfromsaid knife, said last means being adjustable in position toward and away from said knife, a scale graduated in head sizes for in-; dlcatmg sa1d ad ustment, means for operating said knife to cut off the end of said sweat band and means movable relatively to=said supporting means for positively moving said supporting meanstoward said knife.

' 12. In apparatus of he class described, in,

combination, a knife,means for supporting a sweat-bandfolded at its center with-the jux tapo'sed end portions thereof in position 5 to be cut off by said knife, said supporting means 1nclud1ng means for coacting with the center portion of said sweat-band and predetermin-- ing the distance of said center portion from said knife, said supporting meansbeing slidable toward and away'from. said knife and adjustable angularly. with respect to said knife to change the angular relation between said knife and the end portion of said sweat-' band. i i 7 13. In apparatus of the class described, in

combination, a knife, means for supportingasweat-band folded at its center withthep uxtaposed end portions thereof in position i to be cut off by said knife, said supporting means including means for coacting with the center portion of said sweat band and predtermining the distance of said center portion from said knife said'last meansbeing ad.- v justable in position toward and away. from,

said knife, a scale-graduated in head sizes for foldd'at "its centei' with juxtaposed end por-' tions thereofinpositionto be cutofi by said knifeisaidsupport having means for coacting Wi tlr'the'center portion of said sweat-band andpredetermining'the distance of saidscenterportio'n fromsaid'knife, said support being pivotal'ly mounted on said base for swing-- in'g novement thereon to swing said sweatband-Withrespect to said knife, and means '0 for operating said knife'to cut ofithe end of-s'aidvsweat band at-an angle determined bjthrelative angular'positi'ons'of said sup? port ajnd' said knifef 15. In apparatus of the class described, in

[ combination; a knife,a base,'a support on said basebfor supporting a sweat-band .folded' at its'cen-ter with uxtaposed end portionsthereof inpositionrto be out ofi" :by said: knife, said 3 supportihaving means for coactingvwith the go center-portion of said sweat-band and predetermining'th'edistanceof saidicenter portion fromrsaid knife; sai-d meansbeing adjustable in positio'n*relative'toisaid knife in a direction' tow'ard and away therefrom'to change. 251 tif-Iength EtO which the knife-Will cut the sweat-band; and-"a scale graduated inhead sizes for-indicating saidadjn's'tmenqsaid'supportbeing pivotally mounted on said base A forswinging'movement thereon to swing said 80 sweat-band with -respiect to said knife, and meansforoperatingsaid knife to cut ofi'the end'xof said'sWeatba-nd atzan; angle determinedibythe" relative angular positions of a 85 16E "Thef--herein" describedart of "fitting v sWeat' ba rrds -tdhats"which consists in fol-ding *th'ej unfinishe d sweat-band substantially midway between its ends,*'rigidly supporting isaid band-at'sai-d"fold, juxtaposing'the por- @0" tions on the two-'sides'ofsaid fold face to face substantiaily one over'the other, bringing the registering end portions under a knife posi= ti'oned" transVerse1y thereof at" a predete'r 1 Jnined distance from said fold and at a pre= 4.5"determined angle' thereto, operating said knife "simultaneously to cut off. said end pormom; and joining 'the cut' ends of said band in abutting" relation; to provide a finished i sweat-bandofpredetermined hats'ize having boa greater diameter at the-bottom than at the topri In "testi1nony uihereofgI have signed my name :to thls" specification this twenty third 535M December, 1926'? w- 7 RALPHY-KLLLREYNOLDS; 

